Lifted pickup truck suspension with coilover and shock absorber on a Texas trail

TRM Suspension Lab

Build the height.
Control the ride.

Choose the right leveling or lift strategy, then match shocks to your truck, axle, actual lift height, driving style and budget.

Start with the job

What are you trying to fix?

First choose whether you need the complete height-changing system or replacement shocks for the height already on the truck.

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Fitment checkpointChoose a truck; we will ask only for missing fitment details.
1

Primary goal

What should the suspension change?

2

Height and hardware

How far—and how complete?

Leveling kit vs lift kit

Four ways to raise a truck.
Four very different outcomes.

The visible height is only the result. The real decision is what happens to travel, spring rate, damping, alignment and steering geometry.

01

Spacer / puck

Best for: stance on a mostly street-driven truck

  • Upside: lowest-cost path and keeps the original spring rate.
  • Tradeoff: does not add damping capacity; droop, CV and ball-joint angles still need attention.
  • Choose it when: height is the goal and the stock ride is acceptable.
02

Complete leveling strut

Best for: level stance plus fresh damping

  • Upside: matched damper length and valving in one assembly.
  • Tradeoff: higher perch settings can still affect droop and alignment.
  • Choose it when: the stock struts are due or control matters as much as stance.
03

Spring / coilover system

Best for: ride, load and usable travel

  • Upside: can change spring rate, ride height and damper control as one package.
  • Tradeoff: weight-specific setup and correct preload matter.
  • Choose it when: the truck carries gear, sees dirt or needs a real suspension upgrade.
04

Complete lift system

Best for: 4–6+ inch builds and larger tires

  • Upside: engineered brackets, crossmembers or knuckles can address geometry as a system.
  • Tradeoff: more parts, labor, alignment work and downstream fitment checks.
  • Choose it when: tire clearance and height exceed a simple leveling solution.

Shock absorber technology

What happens inside the damper?

A spring carries the truck. A shock controls how quickly the suspension compresses and returns by forcing oil through calibrated piston and valve passages. That motion becomes heat.

Reservoir
more oil + gas volume
Piston + shim stack Hydraulic oil IFP separates oil and nitrogen
Monotube / IFP

A large piston works directly against a single pressure tube while an internal floating piston separates oil from nitrogen. The result is consistent response and better resistance to aeration under repeated motion.

Remote reservoir

The extra chamber increases oil and gas capacity and can free internal space for stroke. That creates more thermal headroom during washboard, desert speed and long rough-road cycles—not an automatic softer ride.

Body diameter

A larger body can support a larger piston and more oil. That can improve control and heat capacity, but valving and vehicle-specific tuning still matter more than diameter alone.

Compression adjustment

An external adjuster changes part of the compression circuit. It is useful when the same truck moves between unloaded street use, towing and demanding dirt—but only if the driver will tune it.

Digressive

Strong low-shaft-speed control for steering, braking and body motion, then a flatter rise as shaft speed increases. Often chosen to pair crisp body control with bump compliance.

Linear

Damping force rises more proportionally with shaft speed. It can feel predictable through a broad range and is highly dependent on the actual tune.

Progressive

Force builds more aggressively as shaft speed rises, adding support during larger or faster suspension events. It can trade small-bump softness for high-event control.

Truck suspension buying guide

How to choose shocks for a lifted truck

Start with the exact vehicle and axle, then use the actual suspension lift at that axle—not the advertised tire size. A front leveling kit can change the required front shock without changing the rear height. A complete lift may use different brackets or mounting points, so “fits a 4-inch lift” is not enough unless the shock is intended for that suspension architecture.

For a daily-driven stock-height truck, a vehicle-tuned replacement shock is usually the cleanest upgrade. For repeated dirt-road use, towing on rough pavement or a loaded overland build, a monotube or IFP design adds control and heat consistency. Reservoir shocks earn their cost when the damper cycles hard and repeatedly; they are less compelling when the truck mainly commutes on smooth roads.

Always confirm drivetrain, cab or chassis configuration where the manufacturer calls it out, and verify that bump stops, brake lines, CV angles, control arms and alignment remain inside the lift-system manufacturer’s requirements.

Do I need longer shocks after a leveling kit?

Sometimes. The answer depends on how the level creates height and how much extension travel remains. Match the shock to the exact vehicle, axle and installed lift range instead of choosing by overall truck height.

Are spacer leveling kits bad?

Not automatically. A properly engineered spacer can be a cost-effective stance solution, but it does not upgrade damping and can change droop, alignment and joint angles. The amount and mounting style matter.

Why use reservoir shocks?

A reservoir adds oil and gas volume, improves heat capacity and can allow better stroke packaging. It is most useful when repeated rough-road cycling creates heat, not simply because the truck is tall.

What shock is best for towing?

Choose a vehicle-specific tune with enough low-speed body control for the loaded truck. Constant payload may also require springs or load support; a stiffer shock cannot restore lost ride height by itself.

What is the difference between a shock and a strut?

A shock damps motion but is not normally a structural locating member. A strut is part of the suspension structure and often carries the spring, so replacement and ride-height changes affect more of the assembly.